Cottesloe Central

The site of the present day Cottesloe Central was once the hub of community social and cultural life. The original two storey building, Wells Hall, was owned and constructed by Walter Wells, a builder and contractor. It can just be seen in the image below in the background on the right. The image is published with the permission of the Cownie family and is from the Stewart Cownie Collection of sketches.

The upper hall was well used for all forms of entertainment – ranging from balls and concerts, to school prize events and wedding receptions.

The ground floor housed the Road Board office, shops, a meeting room and a room for Freemasons’ events. In 1911 the Cottesloe Picture Company held the first of their popular Tuesday night film shows.

During the early 1920s an outdoor picture garden was created on land behind the Leake Street hall and the facility became known as Cottesloe Picture and Summer Gardens.

In 1936 the proprietor, retired school teacher Lou Hatfield, argued that the theatre structure was not in keeping with the district. And so architect Howard Bonner was hired to transform the building into a new modern theatre ‘worthy’ of Cottesloe.

In April 1937 the new 1150 seat Art Deco style Cottesloe Picture Theatre was opened. It boasted an experience similar to sitting ‘by your own fireside.’ There was modern concealed neon lighting, good acoustics, and seats so comfortable that ‘should the programme not be to your liking . . . it will guarantee a comfortable nod.’

Surrounding land was slowly acquired for development and in 1964 the buildings were demolished and the site cleared of its history, making way for the Grove Shopping Centre, now Cottesloe Central.

 

 

For more Peppermint Grove history visit the Community History Centre located in The Grove Library or the website: http://www.thegrovelibrary.net/history

 

A TALE OF TWO JETTIES

Cottesloe Jetty

Cottesloe Jetty, c. 1920

In the 1890s Cottesloe Beach was accessible to people by carriage and by train. From the station there was a short walk down Forrest Street to the Sea Beach which consisted of many sand dunes, an outcrop of rocks, a rocky cliff-face and an area appropriate for swimming. At the foot of the rocks was a reef covered by 2 feet of water. It was a favourite fishing place.

There were several reasons for the construction of the jetty:

• to make life easier for fishermen
• to enable visitors to come close to the ocean without necessarily swimming in it, i.e.promenading
• to attract visitors to the Sea Beach
• to add to the means of entertainment, e.g. band concerts.

In 1899 the Roads Board initiated a move which was to lead to the construction of the jetty, by seeking advice from the Under-Secretary for Public Works as to ‘the best mode of giving effect to the erection of a platform or mole on the reef abutting into the sea at Moodoorup Rocks’.

By October 1903, Mr Shields of the Engineer-in-Chief’s Department had submitted plans for a jetty which the Roads Board subsequently decided to build. The jetty was described as 400 feet long and to cost 1400 pounds, the Government to pay 900 pounds and the Board 500 pounds. The Board promptly set aside its share. The Public Works Department prepared the plans and its engineer carried out surveys, favouring two locations – Beach Street and Forrest Street. Much attention was given to planning the approaches during 1906 and the jetty was completed in August (Guardian 25/8/1906) and handed over to the Roads Board which had been busy preparing draft by-laws for its control. These were adopted in October. In one day 16,000 people travelled to Cottesloe by train! Lighting was installed for evening activities.

 

The pier, as it is often referred, became a major attraction for tourists and residents and was central to the establishment of many stalls, kiosks and tearooms as well as pleasure activities which brought financial rewards to many and financial responsibilities to the Council. The Government placed the Sea Jetty under the control and management of the Council on 26 May 1909, it to be repaired and maintained by the Council to the satisfaction of the Government. The Council had the right to charge for admission.

Repairs were carried out from time to time as winter storms took their toll. However, in 1914 an inspector found the pier unsafe, it had been weakened by a wood boring mollusc, the Teredo Worm, and by 1923 several piles were missing so the jetty was shortened. Improvements and extensions were being considered in 1925, but July storms again caused damage and parts of the jetty were cut away. The Council sought help from the Government to carry out repairs. The Government agreed, provided that the Council undertook payment of costs within 12 months.

By 1946, the Council was considering whether to repair or demolish, a very difficult situation, as financially it was not capable of doing either! Technically, the jetty was owned by the Government and leased by the Council so the matter was really in the hands of the Public Works Department. Winter storms in 1947 took away more piles. Danger notices and barricades were erected the following year. In August, 1948 the Council intended to relinquish control of the pier in accordance with the terms of the lease. In February, 1949 an attempt was made to share the cost of jetty repairs amongst all Local Authorities in the metro area in proportion to population and valuation – on a 50/50 basis with the Government, bearing in mind that there were jetties in other areas. All to no avail.

By July 1949 the Government was set on demolition. The Council expressed regret and hoped a section could remain as a short promenade. Businessmen wrote to the Government to appeal and in December the Council made one last attempt to save the jetty and advised that it was prepared to make a 50/50 contribution (to maximum of 200 pounds) for repairs. The Government replied that demolition would be the best option and quoted a cost of 200 pounds but also suggested that Council should pay half, this was the last straw! The remains of the ill-fated jetty disappeared in August 1952 when it was blown up using gelignite.

Adapted from Loisette Marsh’s article in The Cottesloe Society Newsletter, June 1998 with generous permission from Ruth Marchant James – EF06303

 

The Diving Jetty

Not many people realise that there were in fact, two jetties at Cottesloe! The photograph, snapped by Town Clerk, N. F. Haynes was taken at the opening of the Diving Jetty on 7 January, 1922.  It provides a rare view of the stalls, kiosks and tearooms on Cottesloe Beach north of the main jetty (visible to the right of the picture) and thus it has great value.

According to Council minutes, in October 1921 Mr L Grant offered to erect the spring board and diving platform at a cost of up to 400 pounds. The Council referred the offer to the Cottesloe Surf Life Saving Club who offered to pay 100 pounds over three years to facilitate the structure. The diving jetty was planned as a facility for the club to offer encouragement to poor swimmers. By-laws prevented swimmers from diving from the main jetty so the diving jetty was regarded as a potential attraction for the beach.

Mr Grant’s tender was accepted and the Cottesloe Surf Life Saving Club undertook to pay 50 pounds for three years, 150 pounds in all. The club and the Council conferred over the proposition and agreed it should go ahead, the club to look after the structure.

When Mr Grant submitted an amended price for the diving jetty, Council took the opportunity to ask him for a price to drive piles from the main jetty towards Moodoorup Rocks. The quote being subsequently accepted. The work began in November 1921 and in December it was noticed that an error had been made in the starting point of the jetty. Work proceeded however and 180 feet of jetty was completed and the additional piles driven to take sheeting a distance of 100 feet south from the main jetty.

According to the Civic Centre News (V.6, No.5, Feb. 1957 p.1) the diving jetty, although greatly appreciated, was swept away by a storm four months after it was completed.

 

Adapted from Pat Adamson’s article in The Cottesloe Society Newsletter, June 1998 with generous permission from Ruth Marchant James – EF06303

 

COTTESLOE FIRE STATION

The need for Cottesloe to have a fire station of its own became evident during a heated fortnightly meeting of the Cottesloe Municipal Council in 1910, following a communication received from the Fire Brigades Board. It stated that the Council’s contribution due to the Board for the maintenance of the local fire brigade service was £174 6s. 8d. Board members felt that the service levied was far from adequate, Cr. James was reported to have “criticised at some length the action of the Board, and stoutly affirmed that the council and ratepayers were the victims of nothing less than an imposition at the hands of that body [Fire Brigades Board]. He declared that the local brigade’s efficiency was not by any means commensurate with the amount of “levy” being made on the Council by the Board. The firemen had a cumbrous hose cart to draw about, and generally speaking it would take them 20 minutes or so to reach a burning house any distance from the station. Several of the firemen, too, were expected to proceed so many times weekly to Fremantle for drills. etc., with the result that one man was left in charge of a hose cart which really required a carthorse to draw. The local brigade, under the conditions recently brought about by the Board was a rank failure.”, (The West Australian, 1910).

Then tragedy hit in 1912, when a fire at Mr Blackmore’s house in John Street caused substantial damage. The Fire Brigade having been called, failed to locate the water plug in good time and even when found, the water pressure was such that their efforts were in vain.

Finally, land in Cottesloe at the corner of Stirling Highway and Congdon Streets was vested in the Fire Brigades Board around 1913. The fire station, designed by architect J. Ochiltree was built and opened the following year in 1914.

The old fire station at 441 Stirling Highway served Cottesloe, Peppermint Grove and Claremont until 1988. The new station, next to the old, at 8 Congdon Street, was officially opened 26 November 1987.

Possible uses for the old building were considered in a Report to the Town of Cottesloe by Wilson Sayer Core Pty Ltd, planning and development consultants in February 1988. By this time the matter of heritage listing entered into consideration. Knowing the complexities/limits of its heritage status, and the fact that there had been a rezoning from public purpose to residential and office zone, Mr Dean Capelli bought the station in 1992 and refurbished it hoping to operate a 100-seat cafe, but the Council set a limit of 30 seats with provision for sale of crafts. Mr Capelli found that this would not be viable. The requirements resulting from the heritage listing created a problem for Council and Mr Capelli.

The station was sold at auction in June 1996 for $1m to Mr Paul Holmes a’Court. It had cost $5202 in 1914. It is currently (2016), operating as Braincells, a boutique marketing and creative services agency.

Adapted from The Cottesloe Society Newsletter article with the generous permission of Ruth Marchant James. EF06314

COTTESLOE OCEANARIUM

Mr Paul M Comley of Swanbourne was referred to in the Sunday Times of 27 April 1969, as a quietly spoken pathologist who had spent 7 years in commercial fishing having worked in South Africa catching rare fish for display in Durban. In November 1968 Cottesloe’s Beach and Works Committee dealt with an enquiry from Mr Comley as to whether a building was available or a site on a short term lease where he could erect an attractive temporary exhibition building for a marine aquarium.

A suitable building was not available so Mr Comley attended the December meeting of the same committee with a plan for a fibreglass sheet structure of circular shape incorporating the essential two toilets and covering an area of 46 x 60 feet. The committee displayed interest in the project and recommended that permission be granted for the Oceanarium to be established on the western portion of the Marine Parade Road Reserve between Napier and Eileen Streets. At the Council meeting the following week the proposal for the Oceanarium was approved in principle subject to provision of detailed plans. The annual fee was to be $1 (MM) for the suggested site with a tenancy for one year from 1 January 1969. The building was to be a low profile temporary structure, to be completed in the middle of February.

Once the plans were announced in the “West Australian” there were objections voiced, some complaining that to erect an Oceanarium and toilets, or any other building, on the west side of Marine Parade was not acceptable. Messrs Kyle, Bloomfield and Simonson requested an early response to their objection so they could take further action if necessary. The Council decided that the objections were not valid.

The Sunday Times of 27 April 1969 had announced that the aquarium would be in place in a month, the display to include a 7-foot shark, turtles, jewfish, snapper, groper, tailor, and in a smaller lank crayfish, seahorses and tropical fish. The aquarium was to be doughnut in shape – a steel tank with 14 viewing windows. It was to be on limestone foundations. The terms “aquarium” and “oceanarium” seem to have been used to refer to the same structure.

Once the proposal had been approved the Council had to attend to the formalities involving the closure of a section of Marine Parade Road Reserve to meet the requirements of the Department of Lands and Surveys. By June the aquarium (oceanarium) had apparently opened and the West Australian of 16 June featured a photo of Paul Comley with a 9-foot tiger shark. The matter of suitable parking was of concern but despite Mr Comley’s request that a direct entry to No. 2 carpark from Marine Parade be made, the Council was not willing to change the entry which at the time was from Napier Street. A temporary water pipe was laid to the site in October 1969 and in December 1971 permission was given for a seawater pump to be installed.

In May 1971, Council agreed in principle to lease part of Reserve A 30X07 (excluding seashore) subject to approval of the Department of Lands and Surveys. This was granted in September, so lot 344, formerly part of Marine Parade, was set aside. A petition was received by the Council objecting to the use of public land for “commercial enterprise” but it had no effect as the Council regarded the enterprise as of a temporary nature.

Comley’s “Aquarium and Oceanarium” was, however, far from complete. In June 1972, Comley apologised to the Cottesloe Council for the delay in progress with the building of the Marineland. He now sought permission to incorporate a dolphin pool into the limits of the existing oceanarium. The council was most cooperative and approval was given for “consideration” of a dolphin pool on the site subject to satisfactory plans.

To facilitate the inclusion of the dolphin pool, Comley requested that the northern border the site be extended an additional 43.6 links to correspond with the northern limits of sublot 39 on the other side of Marine Parade. This extension would allow a 40 foot dolphin pool to be built. As there would be expenses involved in the survey of the reserve, Mr Comley was advised that he would need to cover these.

As the news of the possible extension of activities on the ocean side of Marine Parade Road Reserve became known, again there was public outcry. Consequently, even after approval had been obtained from the Environmental Control Advisory Committee and the Department of Lands and Surveys, the Council chose not to approve the plans for the dolphin pool.

Naturally disappointed, the WA Marine Aquarium and Oceanarium Co suggested that the pool might be located on the eastern border of No. 2 carpark, i.e. on Recreation Reserve A 3235 opposite. As the Government had already refused to allow this land to be used for aged persons’ homes, the Council could not support the request. The search for a site for the dolphin pool then switched to South Cottesloe. A possible site south of the proposed Vlamingh Memorial was discussed. The possibility of relocating the Oceanarium on Reserve 30X07 opposite the former cable station was suggested. Although the Council had approved extensions to the Oceanarium in December 1973, its fate seemed to depend on whether a dolphin pool could be built next to it.

By March 1974 the Council was satisfied that the public health aspects relating to a dolphin pool had been covered. In a surprising turn-around at the meeting of 27 March 1974 Council decided to set aside R 30968 for “oceanarium” on land excised from Marine Parade. The proposal was to seek permission to have the oceanarium and the pool sited on the Recreation Reserve A 3235 and to have the parking area extended eastwards. As a safeguard Environment 2000 was to be invited to do an environmental impact study of the proposed site. In July the granting of the lease was still deferred while the dolphin pool proposal was being resolved. By this time it was clear that without the dolphin pool the oceanarium business might close. And this is what happened. The West Australian of 27 August 1974 carried a headline “Back to Sea from Display Tanks”. The oceanarium closed at the end of September and after listing the contents of the pool. Mr Comley loaded the fish into tanks which went by truck to the Jaycee’s Oceanarium in Busselton. Early in 1975, after plans for restabilising the area had been carefully made, Cottesloe’s Oceanarium disappeared.

References: Minutes of Cottesloe Council and subcommittee

Reproduced from The Cottesloe Society Newsletter with permission from Ruth Marchant James

THE DEMISE OF MAC’S STORES

On 6 p.m. on 10 October 1997 this well-known store closed after sale of stock during the final week. Its history stems back to the turn of the Century when, in  1901 Jessie McGillvray, grandmother of John and Alan, opened her grocery shop on the corner of Avonmore Terrace and Rosendo Street. The family lived in premises attached to the shop, and business involved over the counter sales, taking orders and delivering to homes in the area.

Jessie’s son, Bill took over the business in 1935 and with his wife Joan and carried on in the traditional way until 1950. Bill was born in Mosman Park in August 1906 and lived there until  he took over the corner grocery store in  Avonmore Terrace. After the extension of the business in 1950 to Napoleon Street his shops were  known as Mac’s  Food Centres. After further extension to Eric Street, North Cottesloe, the company came to operate 8 supermarkets.

Bill had a very busy community life being a councillor from 1955 to 1961, serving on the Health and Building , Civic Centre and Youth committees. He was appointed a JP in 1952 and assisted as a magistrate in the Fremantle courts for a number of years. He promoted and helped to establish Cottesloe’s first kindergarten, Sea View, which was originally opposite the present building overlooking the oval.

During the war years Bill was said to have sold half packets of cigarettes in an effort to ensure a fair distribution.

In 1950 a second store was built in Napoleon Street and the shop soon took on more of the supermarket style. The original store in Napoleon Street carried meat, fruit and vegetables but these were soon phased out in favour of dry goods.

A further extension of the business into Eric Street took place and the Avonmore Terrace store continued with the addition of a liquor license. Bill McGillvray was instrumental in the formation of Licensed Stores in WA and soon became the inaugural president of the Gallon License Stores Association.

Son John, joined his father in the business in 1960 and with Alan, managed the wide range of property interests. With rapid expansion at one stage there were 9 Mac’s stores in the western suburbs. The brothers maintained an office in Cottesloe to oversee the business.

When it closed, the Napoleon Street store was the only one left in Cottesloe and by then, the name was synonymous with grocery shopping. As the business began in 1901, although it changed hands in the latter years, Mac’s had been operating for 96 years – not a bad record!

Bill McGillvray passed away suddenly at his home on 11 July 1978 at the age of 72. Bill was a Freemason, specially involved with the Lodge of Industry. He left two sons, John and Alan, and a daughter, Faye. He will be remembered by many people in Cottesloe. He lived for his work and loved to visit his shops to speak with friends, customers, employees and business associates with whom he had become well known during his 43 years in business in Cottesloe.

Reproduced from the Cottesloe Society Newsletter with permission from Ruth Marchant  James

References: Council Rate Books

Civic Centre News, Vol.44, No.1, October 1992, p.l

Reference: Civic Centre News Vol :27, No.ll, August 1978, p.9.

FROM NECK-TO-KNEE TO NUDITY

The opening of the Jetty, 1907

 

In the very early days at Cottesloe beach, picnics on the sand, listening to bands playing, promenading etc. were more popular than swimming – there were no facilities for changing into swimsuits – and modesty prevented many from even considering donning a bathing costume and entering the water where there were other people doing the same thing!

In March of that 1899 – getting ready for the next summer, bathing bylaws were gazetted. The provision of crude bathing boxes catered for the daring who were modest but also wanted to swim. DECENCY was the byword from the start.

The beach was the place to go for relaxation and amusement, not necessarily swimming. Early settlers brought with them English moral standards which meant that ‘skin was not to be revealed’ (Wells, 1982). There was no problem with bathing suits in the very early days and no doubt the bathing bylaws were carefully worded to ensure decency. Nevertheless during one incident, the Roads Board had to write to Mr Septimus Burt (of Burt’s summer residence, Cottesloe) regarding his son who had been bathing without trunks, contrary to the bylaws. The temptation which came with living so close to the sea on Swanbourne Terrace must have been too much for young Burt.

Two significant years in the early history of Cottesloe are 1905, when the Hotel Cottesloe was built, and 1906 when the jetty was constructed. By this time the popularity of the beach had increased considerably and so had the desire to be in the water swimming. To meet the needs of the swimmers, more substantial bathing boxes or ‘machines’ were placed on the beach to facilitate changing. Mr Page was a well-known provider at Cottesloe beach. Page was granted his permit to lease boxes with no charge because these devices had not been successful in South Australia. He was to pay 20 pounds in the second year and a hundred pounds in the third year. But meanwhile the Roads Board built bathing sheds and some boxes too so Page moved on to North Cottesloe where he helped to establish the popularity of that beach.

Once built, the jetty became a focal point of many activities on Cottesloe beach. The Roads Board framed bylaws to control the use of the jetty and the first of the 14 rules was that no bathing was allowed from the pier. An additional bylaw was suggested – that bathers over 6 years of age shall be clothed from neck to knee.

In 1910 the Council decided to allocate a space on the beach for ladies and children under 12 years, presuming that many lady swimmers objected to bathing amongst gentlemen. A concentration on the bathing costume soon developed.

In 1911 it was decided by Council that an apron be added to bathing garments-as if the material wasn’t heavy enough! By 1925 a conference of local authorities had been held but there was little appreciation of attempts to regulate dress and conduct on beaches. It was resolved that ‘the costume to be worn on beaches be a two-piece costume, Canadian style, reaching from the neck to the knees in such a manner as to secure the observance of decency’. And as for scarlet or red costumes – definitely NO!

During the 1930s the general public kept an eye on decency on the beach. The Council received many letters of complaint when it was believed that improper dress had been worn. At this time Mayor John Black’s comments showed that he was a very progressive, reasonable man:

“People can have little or nothing on and still be well behaved, and on the contrary they may be fully dressed and most objectionable. It is a time of changing fashion …”

By 1934 young men had widely adopted the practice of ‘rolling down’ the tops of their bathers. There were some prosecutions but little official action. In fact the Council was generally sympathetic. When surfies rolled down their suits and then came in on a wave they often lost their bathers accidentally and had to shriek to nearby females to keep them away until they had reclaimed their bathers from the water!

The appearance of rubber bathers, in conjunction with Cottesloe Week in 1934 drew attention once again to costumes and it was noted that the definition of ‘proper costume’ did not say that parts of the garment      may not be  cut out. The Minister for Local Government, Mr Spooner, proposed to frame a new ordinance – it stated that this was permitted as long as certain parts of the body were amply covered.  Gradually, the new swimsuits began to be noticed and shopkeepers had to make up their minds about stocks!

In November of that year a  new  type  of  two-piece  bathers appeared at North Cottesloe beach. This 2-piece suit for girls left uncovered an area   of body between the two pieces. The costume was described in the Daily News in detail. The garment described was brown and white, backless, with strings tied around the neck and waist. The brief trunks fitted neatly to the figure, and newspapers predicted a short  life for the two-piece bathers because the ‘civic fathers’ would think  that the ‘brassiere and snugly fitting abbreviated trunks was carrying things too far’. In fact many of the councillors, and Mayor Black, were sympathetic to the changes but they had to deal with complaints from indignant ratepayers.

The surfers’ problems were solved in 1935. Although in January of that year the regulations required ‘legs [of the costume] be at least 3 inches, the bathers to cover the body in part up to the armpits and back up to the waist, and with a half skirt covering the front from the waist down’, in February the Council of the Surf Life  Saving  Association of NSW gave approval for the wearing of trunks on beaches. By September there was strong  criticism  of  the  local bylaw at Cottesloe. Then in November the newspapers carried the exciting  headline – ‘Bare Torsos – Nedlands approval of male bathers’. The article advised that the Nedlands Roads Board had approved a beach bylaw permitting men to wear bathing costumes without tops, i.e. TRUNKS! This was in line with proposals adopted by a conference of metropolitan Local Authorities. The bylaw recommended was: In the case of males the trunks of bathers shall be supported by a belt at the waist if same is not otherwise supported with shoulder straps’. Women soon benefited by the deletion of the requirement that the length of legs was to be 3 inches.

Even so, Cottesloe was hesitant to adopt the new bylaw, and by 1937 there was reference to bathing trunks getting scantier and scantier. In July of that year the Cottesloe Council received a letter regarding men’s bathers offered in a shop ‘consisting of single piece trunks without reinforcement and without a zip front’. But that month also saw the appearance of stretchable bathers made from a rubber composition – a suit only 12 inches long could stretch to fit! The new swimsuit was known as the ‘telescope’.

Perhaps 1945-46 was the last significant summer in the history of the swimsuit. This was when the bikini made its appearance. It was the work of a frenchman, Louis Reard, whose swimsuit was tiny but significant. It was reported to be the smallest bathing suit in the world, not genuine unless it could be pulled through a wedding ring! Reard was born in 1896. and began his career in 1925 with knitted bathing suits. By 1960, the bikini had become so popular that others produced the same kind of garment but were not allowed to call them ‘bikinis’. Reard died in 1984.

Swanbourne nudist beach was established in 1961 – many years ago now. And the very young today are enjoying the beach in what can only be described as neck-to-knee attire – but in the most brilliant of colours and for very different reasons.

Adapted for publishing from The Cottesloe Society Newsletter with the permission of Ruth Marchant James.

My how things have changed!!

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The Ocean Beach Hotel

Ocean Beach Hotel History

Cottesloe Jetty

The jetty was situated at the foot of Forrest Street and was completed towards the end of 1907. It was constructed of wood and stretched almost 116m out to sea and was 3m wide. It comprised a rotunda and boat landing platform. The jetty was a popular diving platform, much to the dismay of the Cottesloe Roads Board who, in the early years of the jetty’s operation, actively discouraged both the Surf Life Savers and the public from using the jetty for diving practice.

The jetty became a major attraction for the area with brass bands playing every Sunday and on public holidays at the rotunda. Passengers from the Zephyr pleasure steamer would disembark to listen to the music before heading off to Rottnest Island. A second jetty was opened in 1922. Fishing and diving were popular activities along with moonlit evening strolls.

The jetty was continually battered by storms and heavy seas. This, together with damage caused by the wood boring Teredo Worm, rendered most of the jetty unsafe for use and despite attempts by the Council to save the iconic structure, it was demolished with a charge of gelignite in 1952.

Interclub surf carnival on Cottesloe Beach

The Rotunda on Cottesloe Jetty

Diving from the Jetty was very popular

The opening of the Jetty

The Jetty was blown up with a charge of gelignite